At the same time, this cut is a great opportunity for recycling material! So, let's go!
We need that:
Fabric A (Mustang in pink by Cotton + Steel)2 strips 20 × 35 cm (outer pocket below)2 strips 10 × 35 cm (inside pocket above)
Fabric B (Uni of Moda in the color Peacock)2 strips 20x 35 cm (inside pocket below)2 strips 10x 35 cm (outer pocket on top)
Fabric C (Uni "Cotton Couture" by Michael Miller in the color Berry)4 stripes 5 × 35 cm (each the central stripe, of course, can also be different inside and outside)It is best not to choose the median strip lighter than the substances A and B.
Fabric D (Arrows in Turquoise by Cotton + Steel)1 strip 10 cm x 100 cm (or for the sake of simplicity, shorten the entire width of the fabric and afterwards)gain:1 piece Soft & Stable (40cm x 75cm), alternatively:for the outer fabric Vlieseline S320 for ironing or Thermolam for sewing, inside Vlieseline H640 to iron on.In addition:Matching yarn for all fabrics usedScissors or roll cutterSewing needles and who has Clover Wonder clipsIronRuler or geo triangle
First, all fabric parts gem. tailored to the information above. The Vlieseline comes later!
Let's start with the handles. For this, the 10cm long strip is ironed in half lengthwise
then open and both sides folded inwards. Iron again with plenty of steam.
Fold in again. The temples are now only 2.5 cm wide and there are only clean edges.
The open side is now shot edged with a seam. I also sew on the other side a seam but only for visual reasons. This site is already closed and so it's just a stitching. Thread in the appropriate yarn
Then cut the long handle in the middle.
Now, the individual strips are sewn together for inside and outside. For
this purpose, first the middle strips are sewn to the respective lower
pieces of fabric (20x35cm). The parts right to the right (ie, each with
the beautiful outsides) on top of each other. Check that the edges are clean and secure the seam with a few stitches at the beginning and at the end.
The seam allowance ironed to the darker side. In my case that's to the pink side. To each dark side, so that the seam allowance is not seen later by the lighter fabric.
This is what it should look like after ironing.
Now the upper strip is sewn on, while the outer pocket of the handle get caught. To do this, first pin the handle in each case 9cm from the outer edge
between the two straps should be 11cm. Fix both carriers with pins. Make sure that the straps are really straight pinned and not twisted!
Place the upper strip right to right on the lower piece and also tie it down. Sew on the strip, locking it again at the beginning and end of the seam. I also sew at the level of the wearer once each back and forth to fix them as well as possible. This sewing holds the bag later!
Regardless of the color of the upper strip, at least in the outer pocket now ironed down so that the bracket is good later.
Fix the seam allowance with another seam. This
is not absolutely necessary, but ensures that everything stays smooth
even if the bag wanders through the washing machine and gives the
wearers additional stability. Use the best yarn for this.
The 2 interior and 2 exterior parts including the carrier are now ready.
Now the fleece line is applied. I use a part of the inside pocket as a template. As noted above, various variants are possible. The
most common is iron-on non-woven such as S320 as stabilization for the
outer parts and H640 as a cushioning volume fleece for the inner pocket. I now use a special fleece fabric called Soft & Stable, so the bags have a little more stand. That's why I explain this variant here:
With Soft & Stable you only need one layer of fleece for the outside pocket. I cut the fleece slightly larger than the inside pocket template
With Soft & Stable you only need one layer of fleece for the outside pocket. I cut the fleece slightly larger than the inside pocket template
Then I put the
outer part on the fleece, stroke the fabric from the middle and stretch
the fabric slightly towards the outer edge. Fix it with a few pins. The fabric may quietly have a bit of tension, then it lays later wrinkle-free over the fleece
Then the fabric is sewn onto the fleece within the seam allowance, ie with the needle further to the right. If necessary, stretch the fabric in front of the needle with the right hand a little bit outwards
Then check that the fabric rests without wrinkles, if not, simply paint out and sew again. The seams are later hidden in the seam allowance and are not visible, so you can calm partially correct. Carefully cut off the remaining Soft & Stable
Now the corners
are cut out for the ground (of course you can do that before and fix the
fleece in the corners with a seam, but it really does not matter). For this I separate a square with the dimensions 5x5cm on both inside and two outside parts.
Now the bag parts are sewn together. Place the two outer parts on top right to right. The most important thing is that the median strips lie clean on each other. If
the parts do not fit completely together, you can easily cut off at the
top or in one piece in the next step and straighten out the
differences. Do not notice anybody. But if the stripes do not fit clean, you will see it later. That's why I pay attention to it first and foremost.
First, so the strips are fixed with a few pins so that nothing slips when sewing together.
Now all sides marked with a line are sewn together, both sides and the bottom. The corners and top edge remain open. Make sure that the handles are not caught.
Let's get to the corners: Place the opening horizontally and make sure that the seams of the side and the bottom meet exactly
Let's get to the corners: Place the opening horizontally and make sure that the seams of the side and the bottom meet exactly
It is best to let the seam allowances move against each other. You can feel the two seams snap into each other. Then fix with a needle through both sutures and check again if the needle really comes through the suture on both sides.
Now sew it across the edges from edge to edge and sew a few stitches back and forth at the beginning and end of the seam.
So the floor should now look from the outside. Do the same with the second corner. The outer part is now finished. The inner part is sewn together in the same way with the difference that here in the ground a turning opening must remain open. Lock the seams at the side of the turning opening!
Now the outside pocket is turned back to the left. Make sure that the handles are in the bag.
The inner part is pinned right to right from the inside. always start with the side seams. At best, they should lie exactly on top of each other. The best way to do this is to place the seam allowances against each other again. I fix it with a needle.
I fix the fabric around with Clover clips or pins. In most cases, inside and outside fabric do not match exactly. As you can see here, the inner fabric is slightly wider than the outer fabric. How to correct that? Quite simple: When sewing together, the fabric, which is a bit wider (here, the inner fabric) when sewing down. The bottom feed conveyor transports the fabric a little faster than the top fabric. If the difference is not too clear, a small inaccuracy will be corrected along the way.
Here it fits in the end exactly.
Now remove all pins and turn the bag through the hole in the bottom of the inside pocket. Fold the top edge clean and iron once if necessary. Fix with needles or clover clips
For the visible
seam at the top I always use a matching yarn for the outer fabric and
spool a thread matching the inner fabric into the lower spool. Unfortunately, not all sewing machines do that properly, but just give it a try! Now step up feet wide around. To do this, lengthen the stitch length to 3 to 3.5 and start at one side seam.
Now only the turning opening in the floor has to be closed. For this, fold the seam allowances inwards and iron over them once.
Then sew as close as possible and also lock this seam well at the beginning and end.
Finally iron the bag inside and out again and you're done!
The dimensions of the finished bag are: 23cm high, 10cm deep and 22cm long. The handles are each 48 cm long.
Of course, the bag can easily be enlarged for an adult by adjusting the cut dimensions. Cut the pieces 55cm wide and add 30cm in height.
Since the carriers are included in only one seam, this construction is not suitable for heavy contents. If finished leather handles with a length of at least 62 cm are used instead of the covered carriers, the bag is also suitable as a handbag.
The dimensions of the finished bag are: 23cm high, 10cm deep and 22cm long. The handles are each 48 cm long.
Of course, the bag can easily be enlarged for an adult by adjusting the cut dimensions. Cut the pieces 55cm wide and add 30cm in height.
Since the carriers are included in only one seam, this construction is not suitable for heavy contents. If finished leather handles with a length of at least 62 cm are used instead of the covered carriers, the bag is also suitable as a handbag.
so easy . i like & i'll try. thanks
ReplyDeleteWould help if you used video and walked me through the process.
ReplyDeleteMuy bien explicado gracias
ReplyDeletethanks so much, very beautiful bag Im going to saw it.
ReplyDeleteWhat a cute little bag. I'm going to make one for my grand-niece. Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteBonjour,
ReplyDeleteJ'adore ce petit sac! merci pour ces explications et toutes ces photos!!!
je voudrais le faire plus grand mais je n'ai pas compris les dimensions pour l'agrandir? pourriez vous me dire à combien de cms je dois couper chaque morceaux? si cela ne vous dérange pas...merci!